One of the most popular Bulgarian dishes is a cheese pastry called banitsa /bAH-nee-tsah/, similar to the Greek tyropita and the Turkish borek. It is among the comfort foods I miss the most when I am away from home, so a victory dance ensues whenever I manage to find the ingredients.
Banitsa is essentially composed of five things: phyllo (filo) dough, cheese, eggs, yogurt and sunflower oil. Sound easy? If you're 5000 miles away from home, not really. However, one of the numerous advantages of being a Penn student is the urban location, which immensely increases the chances of finding exotic foods such as phyllo. During my freshman year, I was amazed to discover packets of it in the chilled foods section at Fresh Grocer. The phyllo was Greek and thinner than the Bulgarian one, yet I made banitsa with it two or three times and it always turned out delightfully satisfying.
So how do you actually make banitsa? First, you need a cup of Bulgarian white cheese (you can find it in Fresh Grocer), broken down into small pieces. Mix it with a cup of yogurt - at Penn, I use Danone low-fat. Add two or three beaten eggs to the mixture and stir very well. Proportions can always vary according to taste - if you prefer your banitsa juicier, use more eggs and yogurt; if you like it chunkier, add more cheese (but keep in mind that Bulgarian white cheese at Fro Gro is very salty, if it's not in brine, so make sure the finished mixture is not too salty). If you decide to go the lazy amateur way and use store-bought phyllo like me, you can prepare the pastry in two ways.
1. Spread some vegetable oil on the bottom of a baking tin. Place three thin sheets of phyllo in it, spread oil on top. Repeat. Spread one third of the egg, cheese and yogurt mixture on the dough. Add six more sheets, then again filling.Repeat until you have no sheets or filling left. Ideally, those two should coincide, but if you are almost out of filling halfway through the phyllo packet, just mix in some more yogurt and cheese and go on. Finish off with phyllo, generously spread some oil on top, cut the banitsa into rectangles or triangles, depending on the shape of the baking tin, and bake at 350F(180C) for half an hour to 45 minutes, until the top and bottom are golden brown.
2. To prepare banitsa in a fancier way: instead of layering the dough and filling, take three sheets together, oil them, put filling on top and roll them up. Repeat for the rest of the packet. Next, either place the rolls next to one another in a rectangular baking tin, or roll them up as a spiral in a circular tin, starting from the center.
If you feel you have had enough practice with store-bought phyllo banitsa, you might want to go the professional/traditional way and try to prepare it with home-made phyllo. It takes 600g (about 1.5 pounds) of white flour - I would go for bread flour, but all-purpose should also be good enough. Mix it with a pinch of salt, a tablespoon of vinegar and enough lukewarm water (about 300ml/10oz) to make moderately soft dough. Divide it into 12 to 15 balls, cover them with a cloth or towel and leave to rest for about 20 minutes. In the meantime, prepare the filling. Next, using a long thin rolling pin, roll out each dough ball into a very thin, almost transparent sheet, making sure there is always enough flour on the work board, on the rolling pin and on your hands to prevent sticking. Sprinkle each sheet with oil and filling, roll it up and arrange all rolls into a spiral on an oiled circular baking tin, starting from the center outward. Bake at 300F (180C) for half an hour until golden brown on top and bottom - if the top starts to burn early, cover with tin foil until baked through (the same goes for store-bought phyllo banitsa).
Once done, sprinkle with water, cover with a cloth or towel and leave the banitsa for 5 minutes to "take a walk around the field" where it was first born (as wheat), according to Bulgarian folklore. The walk will make it soft on the inside, while it remains deliciously crunchy on top. Enjoy it hot with yogurt or ayran (a yogurt and water drink). In my opinion, the sense of piping hot home-made banitsa melting in my mouth is one of the greatest small pleasures in this life.
Home-made phyllo dough recipe courtesy of http://bgkulinar.net/recepti.php?id=1435.
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Bulgarian Culinary Highlights: Banitsa
Saturday, February 27, 2010
Thursday, February 25, 2010
Distrito Now Serves Brunch
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Winter Harvest
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Curried Tilapia and Raita: A Recipe
A Pinch of Home
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Pizza, Pizza, Pizza
I recently stumbled across a few interesting tidbits on pizza making.
The first is a pizza-making prodigy recently featured on CNN (what were you doing while you were 9 years old?).
That somehow led me to a video on pizza throwing, which apparently has some physics to it, from the California Culinary Academy.
Check them out and try them with this pizza dough recipe for your next culinary spree.
French Bistrot in Philadelphia
Bistros in France are restaurants that serve simple, delicious and unpretentious food in a casual and comfortable atmosphere. Bistrot la Minette prides itself on being an authentic French bistro in the heart Philadelphia. So, when my friend and I stepped into this establishment late one cold, snowy, Friday night, I was pleasantly surprised by the authentic bistro décor. As the General Manager, John Gonzalez, walked us to our table, I surveyed the restaurant. The walls were covered with scenic photos of France, which I later learned were taken by Peggy Woosley, a professional photographer and the wife of Executive Chef Peter Woosley. The room was filled with diners eating at the small, white, marble tables so typical of French bistros. Moreover, the chatter of satisfied clients and the clink of copper pots from the open kitchen muffled the French music playing in the background. As I contemplated the menu, I was glad to see many classic bistro dishes, such as Escargots de Bourgogne and Cassoulet de Toulouse as well as other dishes I was less familiar with; for example, Flammenküche, described on the menu as being an “Alsatian ‘pizza.’”
After ordering, my friend and I were given a complementary gruyère gougère, which is a small, warm cheese puff. Being a fan of cheese, and of complementary food, I found the amuse-bouche hard to resist. When my appetizer arrived minutes later, I was struck by the presentation of my Escargots de Bourgogne ($12). Instead of being served in shells or a small bowl, each escargot was placed in its own individual grey, ceramic terrine. The presentation was impressive, but I found the taste and texture of the escargot even better. This dish was a wonderful example of the holy trinity of escargot preparation: a perfect balance of butter, parsley and garlic. My companion’s Terrine de Campagne ($9), which is sort of like a cold, French version of meatloaf made from pork and chicken, was served with two little brioche buns and ceramic jars of cornichons (the classic French pickle) and Dijon mustard. Although my companion and I both liked the dish, we agreed that we would have liked the flavor of the terrine to have been a little stronger and meatier.
When our server arrived with our main courses, my dinner partner and I both took a minute to admire, and take photos of, our beautifully presented dishes. My Truite Meunière ($23), a miller’s-style trout was wonderful in its simplicity; it was generously covered in a lemon brown butter sauce and served with green beans and fingerling potatoes. The fish was cooked just right—the meat tender enough to cut with a fork and the skin nice and crispy. The sauce was simple, but tasty, in the way only butter can be and the vegetables were well-cooked. However, the most notable thing about the dish was the sprinkling of chopped, toasted almonds, which gave each bite a unique taste as well as a satisfying crunch. Nevertheless, my friend’s Lapin Rôti à la Moutarde ($25), a mustard-braised rabbit with house-made tagliatelle, was the favorite of the two dishes. The rabbit’s sauce, a rich and powerful mixture of mustard, parsley and white wine, exploded in my mouth with its intense flavor. Moreover, the rabbit was tender and moist and the pasta, cooked to an a la dente perfection, was an ideal vehicle for consuming the flavorful sauce. My friend’s only complaint about the dish was that there wasn’t enough sauce or pasta, a testament to how much he enjoyed his meal.
Despite feeling slightly full from our previous two courses, my friend and I consumed our two desserts with gusto; we shared a Tarte Tatin ($8), a type of hot upside-down, caramelized apple tart as well as a raspberry Mille Feuille($8), a classic French dessert of layered puff-pastry, vanilla cream and fresh raspberries. Both deserts were simple, unpretentious and delectable—the defining traits of bistro cuisine. Moreover, after we finished our meal, our server presented us with two pieces of home-made dark chocolate truffles to fortify us against the cold Philadelphia night.
Overall, Bistrot la Minette is what it says it is—a traditional French bistro right off of Sixth and Bambridge. If you are searching for complicated, stuffy and pretentious French food, this is definitely not the restaurant you want. However, if you enjoy eating simple and classic French dishes, in a warm and inviting atmosphere, then Bistrot la Minette is the right place for you.
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Blending Fruit into Your Diet
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Upping the Year with Year Cake
Unlike the regular new year, the Chinese Lunar New Year celebration lasts for about two weeks. Chances are if you hop on SEPTA and go down to Chinatown this weekend, you're still in time to catch some of the festivities.
Sunday, February 14, 2010
Chinese New Year
We cribbed the recipe from the Steamy Kitchen Blog, which also has recipe suggestions for a new year feast. We changed some of the instructions because we don't have a food processor, and we had slightly different amounts of meat, so here are the intructions we followed, but the original recipe can be found here, and there are also folding instructions.
3/4 a head of napa cabbage leaves, minced
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
4 stalks minced green onions
1 lbs. pound ground pork
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 package frozen round dumpling wrappers (gyoza/potsticker wrappers), defrosted at room temperature for 30 minutes (sometimes you can find these in major supermarkets, but your best bet is to head down to Chinatown, where you can also pick up the rest of the ingredients)
Instructions:
Combine the ground pork, soy sauce, rice wine and sesame oil and mix until uniform. Then add the ginger, cabbage scallions, salt and pepper and fold to incorporate.
You can salt and drain the cabbage, but we didn't and the dumplings didn't end up soggy.
Filling Instructions:
Put a good spoonful in the center of the wrapper, then use your finger to paint water on one edge of the wrapper, so that they stick together, then you can try your hand at crimping, or just fold over in a half moon style.
Cooking Instructions:
You can either boil or pan fry these. We actually boiled all of them first and then pan fried some of them, because it is easier to do it that way. You will probably have to boil in batches, but you can reuse the same water for a a few batches at least.
Bring a large pot to boil, then add as many as you can as long as they are not piling on top of each other and cook for about 7 to 8 minutes. If you are planning on pan frying them, I would lay them on a paper towel lined plate to make them as dry as possible before putting them in the oil.
To Pan Fry: heat enough oil (vegetable is fine) to line the bottom of the pan, place dumplings in a ring around the pan, and cook until the bottom is a crispy golden brown, which will take about 5 minutes.
You can enjoy them as is, or whip up a dipping sauce with soy sauce, sesame oil a few sliced green onions!!
Saturday, February 13, 2010
Cheese 101
Last semester, the preceptorial gods decided to throw me a bone. It has been nearly four years of being slighted, after all, so I assumed it was about time. They granted me access to no, not the Wine Tasting preceptorial (I wasn't nearly favored enough for that) but the less famed Cheese Tasting preceptorial. And to hold the class the week before finals was so kind of them! I procrastinated studying finals by attending this preceptorial and this is what I learned:
Cheese: A Penn/Tria Rundown
The Fromager, Jenny Harris, from Tria came. The room smelled rank. She apologized.
She distinguished between styles of cheeses -- the first being fresh. To be classified as fresh, the cheese has to have no rind and be less than 60 days old. Examples include feta, mozzarella, and goat. They are often acidic and pair beautifully with beets. Goat cheese pairs well with white wine and wheat beers.
Then she further differentiated cheeses by their rinds. They can be bloomy (white on the outside). Camembert would be an example. These pair well with sparkling wines. The rind is formed by washing the outside of the cheese with penicillin. And yes, the rind is edible. This question was asked multiple times. And every time she said yes.
You can also have a rind washed with fortified wine, which would be termed an epoisse. They are often pungent. They pair well with honey and dessert wine. She also informed us that you could wash your own cheeses at home with beer! Cool! She recommended washing a Camembert with a Porter. Apparently the results are phenomenal. I might give this a go and report back.
Uncooked and pressed cheeses often have a nutty, olive oil flavor and are not nearly as pungent as those with a bloomy rind.
A cooked press cheese, on the other hand, is aged longer and tends to be more dense and sweeter. They pair well with bold red wines. Examples include Gouda, Parmesan and Cheddar. (Side note: the only thing that makes cheddar orange is dye. There is no difference in taste between white and orange cheddar.)
(Side note 2: "to cheddar" refers to the process of cutting curds into blocks and stacking them).
Then we got to the good ol' Bleu cheeses. These are fantastic paired with honey. It brought out a whole new flavor when the two were combined. To get the bleu in bleu cheese, the cheese is punctured with needles so air is introduced throughout the cheese which produces mold -- the bleu. She noted that you can tell a commercialized bleu cheese because the bleu/mold will be in perfect rows throughout the cheese. Rather than let the mold grow naturally, manufacturers inject the mold directly into the cheese. Sick, I know.
Bleu cheeses should be paired with something sweet (I highly recommend honey) and with dessert wines or a chocolate stout.
She was very adamant that cheese should always be tasted at room temperature.
Inspired by this knowledge, my roommates and I threw an informal cheese tasting party with cheeses from Winter Harvest. We had a grand time but couldn't say our palates were refined enough to speak knowingly about the flavor complexities. See the picture above for an idea of the cheeses we tried. We tried Birchrun Hills Farm "Fat Cat" -- a raw milk cheese aged a mininmum of sixty days. The "Birchrun Bleu" we all agreed was our favorite. It was peppery with hints of floral. Paired with honey and apples, it was a true delight. The final cheese was a "Highland Alpine" that none of us cared for. That's still sitting in our fridge. It tasted little better than store bought Swiss. But overall, the cheese tasting was a huge success. Next time, we hope to accompany the cheeses with wine pairings.
-Marianne O'BrienTweet
Trail Mix
Wandering through the aisles at my local Target, I stumbled upon a remarkable discovery – an entire wall of assorted trail mixes. There were bags with ingredients that ranged from the generic mix of peanuts, raisins, and M&M's to the more exotic dried apricots, yogurt covered raisins, and cinnamon glazed pecans. I stared in wonder at the variety and creativity of the differently themed mixes. I have always been a lover of nuts, chocolate, and dried fruit, so the endless possibility of combining these delicious flavors intrigued me.
After trying countless varieties of trail mixes from organic grocery stores and even airport newsstands, I have found that there is nothing that beats creating your own blend. I tend to favor mixes that are loaded with nuts, especially almonds, peanuts and cashews. Cereal, often Cheerios or Chex Mix, is also a common staple that provides a foundation for this tasty treat. The sweet flavorful bursts from the dried fruit and chocolate make the mix thrilling for the palate.
I usually start with M&M's -- a staple in any trail mix. Raisins pair wonderfully with the saltiness of the peanuts and also cut the sweetness of the milk chocolate. Yogurt covered raisins are even more delicious and add a hint of vanilla to the mix. I like to add dried apricots, pecans, and sometimes hazelnuts, which when paired with M&M's create a taste reminiscent of Nutella. There are some other decadent ingredients that I have been known to add to my trail mixes, including white chocolate chunks, banana chips, cinnamon chips, and dark chocolate covered peanuts. Creating your own trail mix is an experiment in trial and error and it often takes a few tries to come up with a mix that has the perfect balance of sweetness and saltiness, but whatever your blend may be, trail mix is truly the perfect snack for any occasion.
Thursday, February 11, 2010
The Meeting of Two Cultures...via Fruit Salad
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
One Block
South 8th Street, from Dickinson to Greenwich. I won't say that this block comes close to being the best block of food in Philadelphia, but it's a delicious one and a great way to experience South Philadelphia. On this block, there are two well-known food places, Cosmi's Deli and Termini Brothers Bakery. Cosmi's, a family owned place which has been sitting on the corner for 77 years, won the "Best Cheesesteak" award from Philadelphia magazine in 2004 and 2008, and Termini Bros., which has been there for 88 years, is a highly regarded bakery. While this block isn't easy to get to by public transportation, if you're willing to make the journey out to Pat's and Geno's, you might as well walk an extra few blocks and try these places instead.
Something Fishy
Photo Credit: Max Hass
Monday, February 8, 2010
Intrepid Chefs
"Quick! While no one is looking, dump the cheese into the water bottle!"
Since we weren't technically doing anything illegal, the hushed tones and ninja-like movements were probably unnecessary, but the amped up anxiety is all part of the sport my roommates and I make of dinner sometimes. Besides, taking cupfulls of maple syrup is likely frowned upon.
The practice of bringing Tupperware for yogurt, water bottles for milk, or weighing your backpack down with apples from the dinning halls to get your "swipes worth" ($15 for dinners!) is not uncommon as college students learn to stretch their meal plans. But the occupants of 1511 Harnwell College House have taken this thriftiness one step further by having a night of Iron Chef where the secret indigent is Commons Dinning hall cuisine.
Our goal is simple: to create the best meal possible using (almost) entirely ingredients found at the dinning hall. We make it a "family" dinner night - all three of us chipping in to "gather" the ingredients, cook, clean and invite friends to sample to results. Is doesn't stretch the swipe like a bag full of apples will and sure, we could all eat together at the dinning hall and not have to worry about the clean up. But, if you're like me, and you the meal plan you purchased for convenience knowing how stressful your life would get hear makes you miss cooking (I almost went to culinary school) then knowing it's possible to whip up a meal without a trip to Frogro is comforting.
This week we made entree nachos and "bread pudding" for dessert.
The Nachos are almost self-explanatory once you've gotten the ingredients and figured out a few tricks. For example, the pita put out by the Mediterranean station makes great chips if you peel apart the pockets and toast them on a baking sheet in a 350 degree oven for a few minutes. Top them with cheese from the salad bar, suateed mushrooms and onions also from the salad bar and chopped tomatoes located in bowls around the room. For protein, we sauteed shredded chicken breast from the burger station and beans from the salad bar with an assortment of spices we keep in the room - paprika, chili powder, or any mixed meat seasonings will work. After everything was piled on the "chips" we put the tray back in the oven for about ten minutes and voila! delicious, dorm-made nachos that garnered rave reviews (if you've got a little money to spare buy some salsa from the store to make these even better).
The intended bread pudding started with a few slices of think bread with the crusts cut off and cut into cubes. The "pudding" part was a mixture of melted vanilla ice cream (to compensate for heavy cream), syrup from the waffle station, and eggs and cinnamon that I had in the room. Soak the bread, pour the whole mixture into a baking dish and bake for about an hour at 350 degrees. Since I realized last minute that we didn't keep a baking dish in the room, we poured the whole thing into a frying pan and made a cross between bread pudding and french toast. The mixture will have a lot more liquid than usual french toast but cook of medium heat for a few minutes and the bottom will get caramelized and crunchy and the top will stay soft and gooey. Spooned out onto plates, it was a lot like bread pudding - and a lot quicker to make!
At the end of the night, we all agreed it was the best meal we've had from the dinning halls in a while. And the chef in me was satiated - for now.
Sunday, February 7, 2010
Victory HopDevil Review
Happy Super Bowl Sunday, and in honor of this great American holiday of sorts, I thought we should look at a local brew, the Victory HopDevil. It is an India Pale Ale, has 6.7% Alc/Vol and is brewed not too far away in Downingtown, Pennsylvania. And I don't like it. Just need to get my personal biases out of the way before people start to get angry.
Victory claims that HopDevil is "menacingly delicious," but I really think it is just menacing. Before coming to this conclusion, I did give this beer a fighting chance. I spent a considerable amount of time trying to find all the flavors in the complex taste. I sipped, swished, gulped and cringed my way through one bottle, and not finding any of the sweet malt or citrus floral flavors I was assured that this beer contained, I thought I should give it another go. Maybe the overwhelming bitterness that sticks in the back of my throat after each swallow making me cringe for an extra 10 seconds, would grow on me, so I drank another one, with similar results. Half way through the third bottle, which I was swallowing as quickly as possible just to make the misery end faster, I dumped a cracker in the beer....because I thought it would absorb the bitterness, obviously. Then, because that didn't work, I threw some frozen raspberries in it, because they have a way of carrying cheap champagne, and I thought the raspberries would do similar things for this horrible beer. Needless to say, they did not.
What I did next was really an appalling waste of beer, and I am ashamed of myself...but not really.
I decided I would do an experiment to see if anything I could put in this beer would make it taste better. I tried some more frozen fruit, a piece of chocolate, and some candy corn. I of course waited a set amount of time to let the flavors meld and mix, and to let the fruit thaw out, and then tasted each in a very scientific manor. The results were disappointing. The fruit did nothing, the chocolate did less than nothing, and the candy corn made it worse, which in fairness to the beer, is probably not its fault.
The bottom line is, to me, this beer tastes the dregs of another beer, a Guinness more specifically, and I never want to drink it again. Ever. I am just not a fan of the very "Hoppy" flavor. But that is just me, maybe you like hops, and if so, this beer is for you. If you have tastes like mine though, and you want to try something from the extensive Victory offerings, I would go for the Victory Prima Pils. It is much lighter, and will not interfere with the taste of the nachos and any other snack food you are sampling during tonight's game.
Photo Credit: Victory
Friday, February 5, 2010
Yo-reka!
Photo Credit: Madeline Miller
Wednesday, February 3, 2010
Restaurant Week: Le Bec-Fin Edition
Luckily for Penn students, the beginning of each semester perfectly coincides with Restaurant Week in Philadelphia, a time when many elegant restaurants open up their doors by offering a reduced price menu. I thought, how better to celebrate my arrival back in Philadelphia with a three course lunch at Le Bec-Fin, one of the area's most infamous dining establishments, at the unheard of price of $20?
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
A grape transformation
When I think back, I am amazed by how vastly different my sophomore year diet is from my freshman year diet. Mostly, the changes are for the better since I now cook for myself and can even make or buy whater I so choose. However, one change for the worse is that there is considerably less fruit in my diet. Freshman year, I could never nab enough oranges, apples, or peaches to eat. But, now, I barely touch any fruit -- that is, with the exception of grapes.
Grapes are the ideal fruit for dorm room eating. They are easy to wash, easy to eat, and easy to pack. Simply stated, they are the best snacks. If you ever are bored with grapes, I am also privy to a new and exciting method to treat and eat grapes.
Freeze them!
The idea came to me from my lovely Minnestoan friends who mentioned that the Mineesota State Fair sold bags of frozen grapes. After their suggestion, I promptly moved my grapes to the freezer. After an hour or two there, the grape still maintains its outward appearance. However, as you bite into the fruit, instead of its standard crisp and juicy texture, each grape tastes like a mini slushie or Italian ice. It is a refreshing difference. So if you are ever tired of eating a traditional grape, stash a bunch of grapes in the freeze. Your body and your senses will thank you for it.
-Anne Wang