Bloggers' Bites is a series of posts chronicling the foodie adventures of Penn Appétit's blog staff. Last Thursday, Penn Appétit bloggers went to Pub & Kitchen.
Ashlee Burris: Going to Pub & Kitchen was my first Penn Appétit blog outing- we ventured across the South Street Bridge for some delicious, Euro-American comfort food. After walking twenty minutes and more than ten blocks away from campus, we arrived at a rustic, warm, yet obscure setting that housed our destination. The eatery was packed; which is typical for a restaurant in Philadelphia on a Thursday evening. Pub & Kitchen does not accept reservations, so we had to wait 30 minutes for a table. However, my meal definitely made up for the wait. Picking it from their fall menu though did require some scrutinizing attention. I classify myself as a food economist- I pick meals off of menus based on quantity, quality and popularity. I don’t like to take too many food risks when it involves a more than moderately priced meal, especially on a college budget. I did a quick scan of the restaurant clientele and easily observed that the majority of people were eating burgers and short ribs. Our complementary appetizers consisted of autumn vegetables and their daily selection of cheeses and bread. Both appetizers tasted delicious. So to switch it up for my entrée, I ordered the burger and was pleasantly surprised. Not only did I receive a large portion of both burger and fries for $18, but also the burger had unique flavoring. It was stuffed with bleu cheese and topped with double cut bacon strips, pickled red onions, and buttered challah bread. The fries were also hand-cut and seasoned with the right amount of salt. I wouldn’t advise a health-conscious person to order this item off the menu, but I thoroughly enjoyed my selection- 2,000 calories and all. I wholly enjoyed my first outing and the restaurant selection. The items on the menu were a great spin on typical pub food with a unique and high end American flare. I strongly encourage more students to try this restaurant; especially on a night after midterms when comfort food is crucial.
AJ Winkelman: My first trip to Pub and Kitchen was an enjoyable one. After a long wait and some tasty drinks, we were finally seated at our table by an extremely friendly waitress. She felt bad that we had to wait so long so we got two plates of free appetizers -- a plate full of unidentifiable (but delicious) vegetables and a cheese plate. I love cheese and am very choosy, but even I thought the cheese was pretty good. Even better were the spreads that came with the cheese: fruity delicious.
On to the main course. I recently decided I would try to eat more fish, so I forced myself to try the trout. First thing I noticed about the dish was how pretty it was. The light green olive oil surrounded a centerpiece of trout, causing me to pause a bit to admire the aesthetics of the dish before I devoured it. Once I finally took a bite, I noticed a little bit too much salt. The olive oil was clearly of very high quality and was very well paired with the trout, but the saltiness of the trout itself threw me off. I would be happy to return to Pub & Kitchen, if only to try a hamburger next time, because as pretty as my dish was, the hamburger looked unbelievable.
Elliott Brooks: I'm embarrassed to say that last Thursday was my first time at Pub & Kitchen. Having heard amazing things about this upscale American-British pub and its lick-smacking fare, I was eager to make the trip across the Schuylkill. Once seated (after our 30 minute wait!) I ordered the warm beet and apple soup. I have always been a fan of borscht, a beet soup found in most Central and Eastern European countries, and was curious to try Pub & Kitchen's borscht-like variation. The soup itself was a beautiful bright red, garnished with apple slivers, a spoonful of trout roe, a dollop of creme fraiche and a bit of horseradish. The soup was thick and almost creamy, although that didn't prevent me from stirring in all the creme fraiche. It had that wonderful sweet-sour tang that I've come to associate with all beet soups, making the trout roe was an interesting combination. As delicious and beautiful as it was, it didn't come close to my Mom's homemade borscht. Worth the $9? Maybe- I haven't yet mastered the art of making beet soup, so for now Pub & Kitchen will have to do!
Pub & Kitchen
1946 Lombard St.
(215) 545-0350
Monday, November 12, 2012
Bloggers' Bites: Pub & Kitchen
Friday, November 9, 2012
Lost in Translation
Having spent six weeks in France, I wanted to take an entire meal “to-go,” but, alas, neither the French restaurants nor US customs supported this idea. While admiring the Creuset cookware at a boutique in Tours, France, I spied a thin book with the words Riz et Risotto elegantly inscribed on the cover. Herein lay my solution! With this cookbook, I could bring French food home; perhaps I could even become a renowned French chef-- Oh, the possibilities were endless! Sadly, such possibilities vanished as quickly as they had come. Back in the US and suffering from a bit of jet-lag, I mindlessly wrote down the ingredients for one enticing French risotto—“Gratiné au Beaufort”—and ventured to my grocery store, Publix. Once there, I realized that I had no idea what an ingredient, Beaufort, meant— besides that it’s a town in South Carolina. Lacking a Smart Phone and being in Publix, I thus had no way of translating the word with Google. Mon Dieu! I skimmed the remaining ingredients—white wine, shallots, Arborio, olive oil—what could be missing? Cheese! I rushed to Publix’s new fromagerie and asked the attendant if he carried Beaufort cheese. He quizzically replied, “beau-for?” emulating the French accent I had used, “I haven’t heard of it.” I tried again with a slight Southern accent, “Bow-fort? It’s French.” Nothing. So, I substituted Gruyere, another French cheese that I hoped would resemble Beaufort.
Having overcome the issues with translation, I now struggled to convert the measurements from metric units. While in elementary school, I decided that I had no use for the Metric system. You can thus imagine my struggle! Not only did some of my conversions seem rather outlandish (a result which I attributed to the decadence of French cuisine), but others didn’t convert evenly! The oven needed to be preheated to 180°C…356°F. My oven used increments of five. Quelle horreur! Should the temperature be too high? Too low? Anxiety began to overwhelm me, for I always follow directions exactly. The inexactitudes piled up with each step. Add a splash of salt! A dash of cheese when the moment strikes you! Did a splash of salt cause the boiling water to, in fact, splash? How would I know when I felt like adding cheese?! What if I changed my mind? I frantically flipped through the other recipes, but, they too, used this slapdash method! Sacré bleu! My dreams of becoming the next top French chef had been dashed, just like the cheese which I unenthusiastically scattered on the risotto. At least I tried, I thought, as I hesitantly tasted a spoonful. Yet, instead of swallowing something repulsive, my taste buds tingled, delighting in the potency of the cheese and the sweetness of the wine. I excitedly scanned the remaining recipes, happily appreciating their free-style method with every bite. So what if I remained lost in translation for these recipes? For, just as I was lost, the French, too, were lost in the precision of their measurements! Parfait!
News Feed: A Round-Up of the Week's Top Food Stories
• Listicle: Philadelphia Weekly has spotlighted 50 Things You Must Eat in Philly
• Si Por Favor: Check out Foobooz's list of Philly's best empanada offerings
• Newbies: Food writer Drew Lazor highlights the 10 most promising food and drink industry talents in Philadelphia
• Eager to get your Thanksgiving feasting started? Grub Street Philly has compiled a list of restaurants serving up holiday-inspired eats
• Step back cheesesteaks: The Philly meatball sandwich is ready for its moment
• The British are coming! The Insider reports a new English pub is headed for Old City
• Foodmanteau: It's Ketchup! It's Sriracha! It's Srirachup!
• Food meets the election: California rejects labeling of genetically modified food
Wednesday, November 7, 2012
Devon Seafood Grill
Devon Seafood Grill, located in Rittenhouse Square, is known for its freshest, high-quality seafood and notable wine list. It is a semi-upscale restaurant (two dollar signs on Opentable.com) with a slightly casual atmosphere. I recommend going there during lunch, perhaps on a special day, since you can have a delicious lunch at a reasonable price.
When I visited Devon Seafood Grill, the weather was still warm, so I got to sit at the balcony area, with wide-open windows, providing me with a beautiful view of Rittenhouse Square from my table. This vantage point, and the general atmosphere, made my meal so relaxing.
I ordered "Today’s Fresh Fish” menu, which comes with a choice of a grilled fish and two seasonal sides. The fish all vary in price. I ordered Mahi-mahi ($17) with mashed potato and lobster mac and cheese as sides. Mahi-mahi, as I had expected, was very fresh and tasty. The fish was grilled in a way that made the outer part slightly crispy and the inner part very soft. The fish was seasoned well with right amount of salt, peppers and other spices, so it was perfect for me. Some restaurants over-season their steak or fish so that the only thing I taste is the saltiness, but this wasn’t the case with Devon.
The mashed potato tasted just like any other mash potatoes. I like mash potato in general, so it was a good side dish. However, what made my lunch perfect was the lobster mac and cheese. The macaroni pastas were really big, and I liked the fact that they were not completely soaked in cheese, and consequently not too greasy. I really loved it. Although I had to pay a few bucks more for the lobster mac and cheese because it was a special side dish, it was worth it.
Another menu you could choose is “Power Lunch Combos” ($13). You can choose your main dish from a list, which includes roasted duck flatbread, ahi tuna sushi rolls, and lobster tamale, and it is served with a bowl of soup or starter salad. The same goes with “Power Lunch Entrees” ($18). If the lunch sets do not satisfy you, there is variety of other options available, including sandwiches ($11-$14) and entrees ($14-$31).
Of course, I would definitely visit Devon again!
Devon Seafood Grill
225 S 18th St
(215) 546-5940
Tuesday, November 6, 2012
A Brief Introduction To Me
I don’t think I properly introduced myself last week when I wrote my first blog post here about healthy cauliflower pizza. You probably guessed that I love making “healthy” versions of usually unhealthy dishes. That is my second cooking love. Let me reintroduce myself by writing about my primary culinary passion.
I am AJ. I have never met a (dark) chocolate I didn’t like. Sure, I don’t like Nestle like I love Valrhona, but I don’t think I could ever say any dark chocolate isn’t “good”. Almost all (dark) chocolate is good enough for me, and I don’t think I’ve ever once thought that anything “had too much chocolate.”
My relationship with sugar is not as stable. A moderate amount of refined sugar every once in a while is enough to satisfy my sweet tooth. But there’s a moderate amount of sugar, and then there’s this: a Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Red Velvet Cake Pie
Some people can handle massive amounts of sugar. I on the other hand get dizzy, start moving very slowly, fall into a sugar stupor, and begin to hallucinate. Maybe not that last one. So, if I knew a single piece of this thing would nearly send me into a coma, why did I make this monstrosity today?
I don’t half-ass my desserts.
When I make desserts, I always go too far. I am extremely disciplined when it comes to health and food, but make dessert once a week on Sunday. Before that great day, every week I spend HOURS all week planning and researching what ridiculous thing I am going to make next. Chocolate fudge truffle cheesecake topped with homemade whipped cream and strawberries? Been there. Homemade quarter pound “pillow” cookies with homemade chocolate covered brownie centers? Done that. Pie crust filled with chocolate chip cookie dough and red velvet cake? Whoah. Decadent enough. I guess.
I made this chocolate chip cookie dough red velvet cake pie because I happened to have a pound of homemade cookie dough from last Sunday’s dessert day in my freezer, because pie crust is so very easy to make, and because I’ve never made a red velvet cake. I don’t particularly like cake, but I wanted an excuse to make a cream cheese based frosting (I have no springform pan here and I miss cheesecake; this was close enough…or something).
So, that’s enough about me. I love making delicious healthy food, but I also love unbelievably, ridiculously, ludicrously unhealthy food. I also forgot to mention that I LOVE learning about the science behind cooking and baking (I am about to start making my way through this, the new bible of the science behind cooking), but you’ll learn more about that in the weeks to come. From now on -- it’s all about the food, baby.
Check out the photos chronicling the making of this magical and deadly pie:
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Friday, November 2, 2012
News Feed: A Round-Up of the Week's Top Food Stories
• No complaints here: Federal Donuts owners plan to continue expanding, with as many as 10 stores by 2015
• Quick Fix: The WALK blog has a quick recipe for heathy chocolate mousse using avocados
• Uwishunu is back with two must-read roundups: Newly opened Philly restaurants to add to your must-try list and upcoming restaurant openings to look forward to
• Stephen Starr: Food writer Kirsten Henri defends the restaurateur against stuffy foodies' common criticisms
• We're all guilty: Local Philadelphia chefs share some of their commonplace food vices, from Ben & Jerry's Phish Food to Oreos with peanut butter
• Listicle: Philly Mag offers the "21 Best Things to Eat at Reading Terminal Market," which celebrated its 120th birthday this year
• Spuds: A brief history of the tater tot and some Philadelphia watering holes that are serving up the classic childhood food (also check out this recipe to make your own!)
• National Wire: Yelp is launching an “Explore the Menu” feature that displays user-contributed photos of restaurant's menu items
Thursday, November 1, 2012
Cake Mania
Who doesn't love cakes? I am a bit cake-obsessed and by a bit I mean constantly stalk new creations of my favorite cake decorators. One of my all-time favorite cake decorators is Bronwen Weber of Frosted Art Bakery in Dallas, Texas. I first discovered her during her many stints in Food Network Challenge. I found myself always rooting for her as she created some of the most incredible cakes I have ever seen, on the spot and within a time limit. What draws me to her cakes so much is the attention to incredible detail, how life-like her cake sculptures are, and how intricate and beautiful the overall designs of her cakes are. You can check out some of her amazing creations here.
And I cannot possibly do an introduction to my favorite cake designers post without the aforementioned cake genius that is Duff Goldman of Charm City Cakes in Baltimore, Maryland. Duff's ability to create the most interesting, jaw-dropping cakes is unmatched in the industry. His willingness to take chances and make cakes that possibly no one else would ever attempt is inspiring. I will never forget the awe I experienced when I saw the episode of "Ace of Cakes" in the first season entitled "Wedding Cakes and Headaches." In this episode, Duff created a birthday cake for his father in which he had fireworks come shooting out of it. Not many would attempt such a cake but Duff was excited for the challenge. If you want to admire extreme yet beautiful cakes, Duff would be your guy! Check out some of his cool cake sculptures and more here!
Courtesy of: colettescakes.com
Taste the Celebration
When I was in first grade, I became obsessed with fairies. I had a fairy house – think dollhouse – outside, and I spent hours making furniture out of twigs and delectable fairy delicacies out of flowers. So of course, when the leaves began to turn and my birthday planning began, I asked for a fairy themed party. My mom and I planned fairy games, crafts, and costumes, and after I submitted my request for lemon cake and vanilla icing, my mom planned the cake. On the day of my party, as all my classmates sang “Happy Birthday,” my mom carried a beautiful fairy to the table – my favorite lemon cake forming the giant domed skirt of a repurposed Barbie doll with a blue icing bodice and wings.
When I was little, I always wanted plain lemon cake, but the shapes my mom created each year stole the show. Koala bear faces and teacups for me, footballs and train tracks for my brother: food coloring, carving, and lots of love. Ever since I can remember, birthday cakes have been a big deal in my house. At some point along the line, the cakes became simple round layers, and I shifted my allegiance from lemon cake to chocolate with a year or two of carrot cake limbo in between. Nevertheless, I still see birthday cakes as the center of the celebration – a birthday necessity made to order.
This year, I was lucky enough to be home for my mom’s birthday which meant that I had the all-important honor of baking her cake. Not surprisingly, she asked for chocolate cake and in particular for what has become our favorite chocolate cake from Bon Appétit. Considering the multitude of chocolate cakes we’ve tried over the years, that’s quite a compliment. With a moist and fluffy crumb, the cake melts deliciously in your mouth.
Cake decided, it was time to choose the icing to top it off. To the great satisfaction of my taste buds, my mom selected chocolate ganache. With its fancy French name, I used to think ganache was a difficult and sophisticated preparation reserved for restaurant desserts. Luckily, I discovered before too long that it is remarkably easy – requiring just a quick whisk of warm cream and chopped chocolate. Even more importantly, it is lick-the-bowl, never-eat-store-bought-icing-again kind of good.
When I carried the cake to the table on my mom’s birthday, it wasn’t quite as showy as the fairy of years ago. It didn’t feature food coloring or carving. It wasn’t colorful or creative. But it was just as delicious as any birthday cake before and it was baked with just as much love.
My favorite chocolate cake recipe can be found here on the Bon Appétit website. Oddly enough, I’ve never made the cream filling or ganache recipes that are paired with the cake, but I think you’ll love the cake regardless of the fillings and icings you choose.
Wednesday, October 31, 2012
Kung Fu Hoagies
Tucked away on 38th street between Chestnut and Walnut along a strip of food trucks is a new face on the scene – Kung Fu Hoagies. Once you get far enough up the block you can’t miss the little food cart with bright red umbrella and brilliant green and blue dragon on the side (painted by the owners themselves!). Kung Fu Hoagie specializes in Vietnamese hoagies and noodles that are all vegetarian or vegan. I went for lunch with two friends – one an omnivore, the other a vegan but both huge fans of the truck. I’ll have to say that after my lunch I was converted, too.
The menu is quite limited offering only 4 options (not including specials) but they are all delicious so it doesn’t really matter. We got the Traditional Banh Mi as well as the Veggie Pho. The Banh Mi is basically a Vietnamese hoagie, it comes with lemongrass tofu, vegan chicken or beef (we got the tofu) and is topped with picked carrot and daikon, cucumbers, cilantro, vegan mayo and their special Sriracha sauce. They make the sandwich right in front of you on an impossibly small cart. We had fun chatting with the owners while they lightly grilled the fluffy rolls and filled them with deliciousness. I’m happy to say that the sandwich didn’t disappoint. The tofu was satisfying, even for people who aren’t regular tofu eaters. The acidity of the carrots and daikon went with the sandwich perfectly. At $4 a hoagie it’s a perfect lunch size and a great bargain. We also tried the Veggie Pho, which I think might have been the real star. The broth is vegetarian but tastes so much like traditional pho broth that I was startled. They also include several pieces of vegan beef and chicken “meatballs.” For someone who likes to eat meat I was happily satisfied with the vegan alternatives. Pho coming from a food cart was certainly a pleasant surprise and made for a lunch that I’d be happy to repeat anytime. The bottom line is that everyone – vegans, vegetarians and those of us who eat everything – can find something to like at this food cart (not to mention that it’s both really healthy and affordable). Check them out for Thursday lunch on 38th street and follow their twitter for more location updates!
Tuesday, October 30, 2012
Canal House visits Penn
Near the banks of the Delaware, just across from an old-fashioned hardware store, tucked on the second floor of a red brick building, is a kitchen-studio.
On a normal day, it’s a hotbed of activity. Eight burners and two ovens blaze. Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton are turning food on.
The team self publishes their own seasonal cookbooks, the newest of which, Canal House Cooks Every Day, hits book stores this month. This hardcover tome is different from the triannual books they have published in the past.
But this day isn’t a normal day for the Canal House cooks. They’re not in their Lambertville, New Jersey studio. Instead, they’re in West Philadelphia introducing Penn students to the Italian snack tramezzini. Hamilton presents a silver platter bearing stacks of whitish spongy bread and silky truffle butter.
She opens one of her cookbooks and reads, “The truffle’s heady, intimate fragrance is powerful. Choose your company wisely.” She grins.
When Canal House started out, self-publishing was “a bit of a dirty word,” Hirsheimer says. But the former Saveur editors believed if they were interested in a subject, others would be, too. “I love this work,” Hirsheimer adds. “I’m excited every day. I like to be turned on.”
Hirsheimer and Hamilton prize reader-writer intimacy. Rather than simply listing recipes, they offer stories. A comment – signed C.H. or M.H. - ushers in each culinary concoction. “The head note has to illuminate,” Hirsheimer explains. “It has to tell something about our experience or have useful information.”
One inscription recounts the time Christopher and Melissa lugged a thirty-five pound Cinderella pumpkin home, coated its insides in pimetón and preserved lemon, and filled it with chicken broth. When the gourd was roasted, guests scooped soup and flesh straight into their bowls. They declared it the best thing they had ever tasted (“Aw, shucks!” writes C.H.)
Another head note accompanies photographs showing a cross section of a boiled egg’s insides after sequential minutes. When Hamilton told Hirsheimer she was going to nail the boiled egg, the latter loved the idea so much she leapt off her desk chair. “When people really know how to cook, often they talk about this,” Hirsheimer says, touching the egg diagram. “They think this is really wonderful!”
Self-proclaimed “platterists” (translation: they think plating each individual dish is missing an opportunity), Hirsheimer and Hamilton know meals create bonds. When they feed a group of people who don’t know each other well, they hand one guest a platter and let her figure out what to do next. The passing of a platter “engages people,” Melissa explains. “It breaks the ice, it gets people to be courteous. It’s a way of warming them up to each other.”
One more thing about the truffle (there are still a few sandwiches left on that shiny platter.) “The quality of a truffle,” Hamilton reads, “Like sex, is hard to describe. Its taste is so fundamentally good that even if you know nothing about it, your body will recognize the experience and know what to do.”
“Eating a truffle,” she says, “Involves following your senses and then some, so close your eyes and go with the feeling.”
The room erupts into laughter. Intimate, indeed.
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